News & Photos - December 2009


Greens And Browns
Current Location: Site 18, Bogachiel State Park, Forks, Washington
Dates: Dec 2-3, 2009
Services: E/W; Cost: $25.00; Nights: 1

This was another “refill and recharge” site, but it also provided convenient access to the Hoh Rainforest area of the park. Filled with ferns and club moss, it seems that everything is growing on top of everything else.



Giant Sitka Spruce tree


Tree trunks provide a
place for moss and ferns


Branches dropping
with moss



Fallen trees provide
nutrients for more trees


This trunk is 190' long;
some grow up to 300'


A Roaring Good-Bye
Current Location: Site D24, Kalaloch Campground, Olympic National Park, Washington
Dates: Dec 3-5, 2009
Services: None; Cost: $14.00; Nights: 2

This is the last campground that I'll be staying at in Olympic National Park, and it's by far the best one. With 170 sites it's the largest campground, but there are only 6 sites occupied this late in the year. Some of the sites (including mine!) are at the top of a cliff overlooking the ocean, with a view of the waves right outside my window, and the roaring waves drowning out any other noises (including my generator).





They claim this is the world's
largest spruce tree


Merriman Falls

Back To Civilization
Current Location: Site 5, Pacific Beach State Park, Pacific Beach, Washington
Dates: Dec 5-6, 2009
Services: None; Cost: $21.00; Nights: 1
Current Location: Site 1, Twin Harbors State Park, Westport, Washington
Dates: Dec 6-8, 2009
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $28.00; Nights: 2

After frequently being the only person in a campground, I was surprised to find Pacific Beach state park to be half full! Perhaps it's the view (right at ground level) of the pacific ocean; perhaps it's the location close to cities like Aberdeen and Hoquiam. Twin Harbors was much quieter; there were only two other campers there. There was relatively little to see or do in the area, other than shopping in Aberdeen.



Lots Of History Here
Current Location: Site 18, Cape Disappointment State Park, Ilwaco, Washington
Dates: Dec 8-10, 2009
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $28.00; Nights: 2

I normally don't stay in serviced sites 3 days in a row, but with the unseasonably cool weather (nights have been going down to -8°C, and days only a few degrees above zero), I need to run the heater to stay warm, as the furnace will drain my batteries fairly quickly. As it turns out, this is a good location to explore the history of the area (especially the Lewis and Clark expedition), and also the nearby town of Astoria, Oregon.

Located on the north shore at the mouth of the Columbia River, this 1,882-acre park is home to two lighthouses. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is located at the entrance of the Columbia River. However, ships coming from the north couldn't see its light, so the 65-foot North Head Lighthouse was constructed two miles up the coast in 1989. Its lens burned five gallons of kerosene per night, and produced a light that could be seen 20 miles out to sea.

This area's biggest claim to fame is that it was the end of the Lewis and Clark expedition. 31 explorers, mostly US Army men, were sent by President Thomas Jefferson to explore the Louisiana Territory, which was purchased from cash-strapped France in 1803. They were to explore the Mississippi River to its source, establish the most direct route to the Pacific, and make maps and observations about their discoveries. They left in May of 1804 and wintered at Fort Mandan 1,600 miles up the Missouri (near present-day Washburn, North Dakota). In April of 1805, they continued on, trading with the Indians for horses to cross the mountains. They spent the winter of 1805-1806 on the south side of the Columbia River (near present-day Astoria, Oregon) before returning home the following spring. They were not the first white people to explore this land; others such as British fur trader John Meares visited in 1788 and Captain Robert Gray in 1792.

Opened in 1966, the 4.1-mile Astoria-Megler Bridge stretches across the Columbia River, replacing an earlier ferry system. Originally criticized as the “bridge to nowhere”, some people wondered why anyone would want to take a bridge from a small town to an empty shore. However, it quickly grew in popularity, and by 1993 more than 1.6 million vehicles per year were using the bridge. Its most unusual feature is the full 360° off-ramp on the Oregon side.

Perched high on a hill overlooking the town of Astoria is the Astoria Column, a 125-foot high tower which contains a spiral staircase leading to an outdoor observation platform at the top. Built in 1926, it has an excellent 360° view of the surrounding land.

Down miles of back roads is the Youngs River Falls. One source says that it was discovered in 1792 by Lieutenant William Broughton of the Vancouver's expedition and named after Sir George Young (1732-1810) of the Royal Navy. Another source indicates that it was discovered by the Lewis and Clark expedition in 1806.


North Head Lighthouse




Astoria Bridge to Washington


Condominiums on the water


Astoria Column



View from the top


Youngs River Falls


North Head Lighthouse
360° view from the top of the Astoria Column
Sunny Oregon
Current Location: Site 92, Fort Stevens State Park, Warrenton, Oregon
Dates: Dec 10-13, 2009
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $18.00; Nights: 3

So far, I'm impressed with Oregon and its State Park system. Not only are almost all of the parks open all year (unlike Ontario's Provincial Parks!), but they have winter rates in effect now, making the prices very reasonable (unlike Washington's State Parks). Right now, I'm staying in a full-hookup site, and paying $10 less per night than I did for a similar site in Washington. Some campgrounds are as low as $12 per night for a site with hookups, and a few parks even have WiFi Internet access. However, it appears that rates will go up significantly next spring. There is a 360-mile Oregon Coast hiking/bicycling trail, stretching from Fort Stevens to the California border. Even the gasoline is a bit cheaper here than in Washington, although all the stations are Full Serve.

On the park's beach is the wreck of the Peter Iredale, which struck bottom in 1906 during a strong storm. Most of the hull was dismantled and sold as scrap metal, but the bow was left intact to slowly disintegrate in the salty air.

At the north end of the park at the mouth of the Columbia River is the remnants of historic Fort Stevens. Like similar forts all up the Pacific coast, this artillery fort was abandoned shortly after World War 2, when long-range missiles made it obsolete. Although many of the buildings have been demolished, the concrete gun placements and the foundations of many buildings still remain.

Just south of the town of Astoria, the Lewis and Clark River empties into Youngs Bay. This is the location where the Lewis and Clark expedition built Fort Clatsop, and spent the winter of December 1805 to March 1806. Their journals indicated that it rained all but 12 days of that winter... quite a change from the cold but sunny skies that I am experiencing here. During this winter, the men hunted, boiled sea water to make salt, and brought their journals up to date with maps and notes on plants, fish and wildlife in the area.





The bow of the Peter Iredale






Fort Stevens


Fort Clatsop (reconstruction)


Shelter From The Storm
Current Location: Site 9, Trucke's Necanicum River RV Park, Seaside, Oregon
Dates: Dec 13-15, 2009
Services: E; Cost: $15.00; Nights: 2
Current Location: Site C9, Nehalem Bay State Park, Manzanita, Oregon
Dates: Dec 15-17, 2009
Services: E/W; Cost: $16.00; Nights: 2

With 60 km/h winds forecast for the Oregon coast, I decided to wait out the storm at a location that was in-land. I had found this commercial RV park in an online “$10 and under” listing of campgrounds. Even through their prices had gone up to $15, it was still much cheaper than anything else in the area.

After the storm died down, I moved on to another state park, right on the coast. The weather continues to be rainy and windy, although last week's sunshine and cold temperatures have gone. With miles of sandy beaches, this would clearly be a great place to spend the summer!







Not Where I Wanted To Be
Current Location: Site C51, Cape Lookout State Park, Tillamook, Oregon
Dates: Dec 17-19, 2009
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $16.00; Nights: 2

A “$10 and under camping” directory indicated an inexpensive RV park at the Tillamook Airport. However, I found it to be closed when I arrived, probably because half the sites were flooded due to the recent rains! Reluctantly I headed on to Cape Lookout, where I had another disappointment — the nice campsites on the beach were closed due to major construction near one of the washrooms. I had to settle with a smaller site among the trees. The main attractions in this area are the sandy beaches and the 2.5-mile Cape Lookout Trail.



View from Cape Lookout Trail


Hopping Down The Coast
Current Location: Site B2, Devil's Lake State Recreation Area, Lincoln City, Oregon
Dates: Dec 19-20, 2009
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $19.00; Nights: 1
Current Location: Site A3, South Beach State Recreation Area, Newport, Oregon
Dates: Dec 20-26, 2009
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $18.00; Nights: 6
Current Location: Site 36, Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, Florence, Oregon
Dates: Dec 26-27, 2009
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $17.00; Nights: 1

It seems that the Oregon coast consists of endless miles of sand, rock and waves, broken only by the occasional lighthouse. This time of year, the parks are quite empty; it seems that there are more camp hosts here than campers! Oregon seems to have a large volunteer camp/yurt host program; I should look into this for another year.



Newport Bridge






Yaquina Head Lighthouse




The State's Sandbox
Current Location: Site 108, Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park, Florence, Oregon
Dates: Dec 27-29, 2009
Services: E/W; Cost: $17.00; Nights: 2

Sections of the coastal dunes in this area are open to dirt bikes and ATVs, and a portion of the campground has larger RV sites for those who bring their bikes with them when they go camping. Even on a Monday at the end of December, there are still many people who come here to play in the sand!







Thousands Of Lights
Current Location: Site B24, William M. Tugman State Park, Lakeside, Oregon
Dates: Dec 29-31, 2009
Services: E/W; Cost: $12.00; Nights: 2
Current Location: Site B2, Sunset Bay State Park, Coos Bay, Oregon
Dates: Dec 31, 2009-Jan 1, 2010
Services: E/W/S; Cost: $16.00; Nights: 1
Current Location: Site 7, Oceanside RV Park, Coos Bay, Oregon
Dates: Jan 1-2, 2010
Services: E/W/S/WiFi; Cost: $20.00; Nights: 1

During the 1800's, lumber barron Louis Simpson built a mansion and gardens here on the cliffs above the ocean. As the family fortunes declined, parts of the estate were sold to the state, forming Sunset Bay State Park (with camping and picnic areas) to the north, and Shore Acres State Park to the south. Shore Acres contains the original extensive gardens, and every winter, thousands of volunteers string 275,000 LED lights up to create a huge holiday light exhibit seen by 45,000 visitors each year. Although there are some traditional Christmas trees, most of the displays show local nautical life — a few, such as the Sea Lions and Orca Whale are even animated!


















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